Rutherford Day in the Dust: 2004 Vintage Reviewed
By Al Hernandez

At the 2007 Rutherford Dust Society trade tasting “A Day in the Dust”, vintners showcased the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon vintage and some Sauvignon Blancs. I know everyone hears the word “Terroir” and thinks that it something only wine geeks understand. Truth be told, sometimes I think it can be overblown and some winemakers are making their wines so big and bold that the wine loses some of the gentle  tones that make up that signature taste of the region.

When I try to showcase “Terroir” I tend to use Rutherford as a prime example. Although Rutherford only encompasses six square miles of vineyards, they are among the best anywhere in the world.  André Tchelistcheff the legendary winemaker from Beaulieu Vineyards has been credited with coining the phrase "Rutherford Dust", and used it to describe the distinctive properties of the wines from the Rutherford vineyard sites. Rutherford’s soils are primarily gravel, sand and loam, and are dominated by volcanic deposits and Franciscan marine sediment. They provide excellent water drainage and perfect growing conditions for Cabernet Sauvignon. I am a believer in Rutherford Dust. I have smelled and tasted the “dust” first hand in several wines. That isn’t to say that every Rutherford wine has it because there are fluctuations in winemaker styles, vintages, barrel programs etc.

Overall, this tasting confirmed my views of the 2004 vintage as being a very good vintage. For those of you keeping track of the whole vintage rating thing, you have heard me say before “there is no such thing as a bad year in Napa Valley”. I stand by that statement; there are some years that are better than others but there are no “bad” ones. The 2004 vintage is a definite standout with high levels of fruit concentration, great color, yet, very approachable right from release.

Some notable wines at this year’s tasting include Quintessa, William Harrison, Frog’s Leap, Flora Springs, El Molino and Tres Sabores. We will have a full tasting notes and reviews as these wines are released.